Garam masala is more than a blend of spices, it is the story of family migrations and alliances made through marriages, it carries the aroma of secrets passed on in home kitchens and represents loving exchanges of small glass jars filled with the magic of the country. Garam masala is the song generated by centuries of pestles thumping against mortars as they sing the story of India, show the reason why it was romanced, invaded and colonized. Spices, especially black pepper, was the prize that attracted visitors to India, benign and not so benign and some definitely over stayed their welcome.

Usually garam masala is made once or twice a year by the matriarch of a family and small glass jars or ziploc baggies (if you live far) are shared with children and grandchildren. It is often a recipe that has been handed down from mother to daughter and daughter-in-law, modified, adjusted and passed on to the next generation. I have only recently started making my own masalas and in the process have learned about how women in our families take turns to preserve their culinary heritage. Didi’s garam masala is a blend that is made and used specifically by my mother-in-law’s family, a North Indian heritage she probably brought along with her in a small jar after her wedding. I reached out to my sister-in-law (Didi) who kindly shared her recipe, which I promptly modified to suit our palate, and so it continues…

Garam masala can be translated as a warming blend of spices and that also sums up their role in Indian cooking. Garam masala can be used instead of using whole spices or using a variety of spices. Since it is made with a large number of spices, it tends to be concentrated in flavor and hence just a small amount does the trick. I use about 1/2 tsp for a curry for 4 people, for example.

The most common spices used are coriander, cumin and fennel seeds for volume, bay leaves, black cardamom and black pepper for earthy aromas, floral and fruity flavors from cardamon, cloves, star anise, and mace, and red chillies for color and mild heat. Additionally, Aai (mom) adds coconut, stone flower, black cumin seeds, and some other spices in her blend, which I will share later. These are the basic components of most garam masalas and the variations lie in the diversity and proportions of spices used.

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Step by Step

1. Measure the spices on a weighing scale to take away the guess work and also to know how you will modify the masala for your own family’s palate when you make it the next time.
   • 50 g cumin seeds
   • 50 g black cardamom
   • 25 g whole black pepper
   • 10 g whole cloves
   • 5 g cinnamon sticks
   • 4 pieces bay leaves
   • 1 mace flower
   • 1 tsp nutmeg, ground
2. Measure all the spices first and then slow roast each spice individually on a low flame in a pan or kadhai for a few seconds until lightly warmed.
3. Then set aside.
4. Once all the spices are dry roasted, allow them to cool completely, then grind in a nut grinder or the dry masala attachment of your food processor.

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5. Grind a couple of handfuls of spices at a time and pour the masala into a bowl. Then mix it with a spoon and grind the masala again.
6. Usually I grind the spices 3 times to ensure that the masala is fine and blended well together.
7. Fill in small glass jars for storage.
8. Masalas do not need to be refrigerated and last easily for a year in your kitchen cabinet.
9. Use as follows:
   • Sprinkle 1 tsp on your dishes in the last few minutes of cooking and allow to simmer on low heat for 4-5 minutes
   • Mix with 2 tbsp yogurt for a dip or marinade
   • Addi to marinades and salad dressings
   • Add in soups and stews
   • Season the flour when baking bread
   • Sprinkle over cut vegetables before roasting
   • Use as a dry rub for meats before grilling