Barnyard millet (Echinochloa species) is an ancient millet crop grown in warm and temperate regions of the world and widely cultivated in Asia, particularly India, China, Japan, and Korea. Technically a seed, varai is gluten-free and is a good source of protein, carbohydrate, fiber, and, most notably, contains more micronutrients (iron and zinc) than other major cereals (https://doi.org/10.3389/fgene.2020.00500). Varai is also known as samo, samak, or bhagar and is often cooked for fasting days. Neutral and clean in taste, varai can take on the taste of the spices or seasoning you add to it.

English names for several grains and lentils that are indigenous to Asia and Africa are a product of colonial politics of denigrating native knowledge as backward and uncivilized. For example, varai rice is called barnyard millet, which immediately evokes poultry and poultry feed. Similarly, names such as cowpea, horse gram, chickpea, pigeon pea, buffalo nut, etc. all evoke animal fodder and help advance the Eurocentric narrative of native systems as savage and animal-like. These grains and lentils named after animals are staples and part of daily meals on the Indian sub-continent. Interestingly, things come a full circle as the western gaze seeks healthier and diverse grains and indigenous crops, fruits, vegetables, and practices gain popularity.

I often make a pot of varai on Mondays, which is my fasting day, and eat it with ghee and lemon pickle, or with peanut amti. It rests lightly and kindly in the belly and does not leave you feeling stuffed. It is cooked just like rice with water.

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

Step by Step

1. Rinse and soak 1 cup varai for 30 mins.
2. Drain it in a colander.
3. Heat 2 tsp ghee in a pan.
4. Add
   • 1 tsp cumin seeds
   • 1 finely chopped green chili (Thai bird chili)
   • Saute for 20-25 secs
5. Add the drained varai, saute for 30 secs.
6. Add
   • 3 cups water
   • 1.5 tsp salt
   • Cover and cook on medium heat till all the water is absorbed (about 7-10 mins).
7. Turn off the heat.
8. Fluff lightly with a fork.
9. Serve hot with chopped cilantro, peanut amti or just a dollop of ghee.

• 

• 

•